It's
always surprising to find how much of America is empty, like this stretch
of Highway 89 going north to Jackson, Wyoming. No habitation from horizon
to horizon all around, just sagebrush and the occasional herd of Pronghorn
Antelopes. Open range country with big, spectacular skies

Our first day in Zion the temperature was in the high 90's so we headed
off from the end of the road to explore the narrow, shady canyon of the
Virgin River, wading the cold water over rocks and red sand until we left
the most of the other tourists behind. Wary of a trailhead warning of flash
floods, we turned back when thunderclouds started sending down large drops
This
1/2 mile trail to a lookout over Zion canyon called for a good head for
heights since at one point we were walking on a pathway of planks fastened
onto a sheer cliff face. A large tarantula did not yield right of way but
was quite content to be photographed. At the end, a sheer drop overlooked
the narrow, switchbacked road we had driven earlier, including a one-mile
tunnel through the mountain
Yes,
the Grand Canyon is BIG and DEEP! We stayed a couple of nights on the North
Rim, just missing thunderstorms the night before. Trees had blown down,
closing some roads for a while, and a grandfather had been blown off a trail
in front of his family, falling 500' to his death. While we were there,
his body was still unrecovered due to high winds
See the Clarks Nutcracker in the tree? We were also watching a Peregrine
Falcon hunt from an outcrop in the abyss below
To get some idea of scale, can you spot the people on the narrow spur above
the rock window?
And
can you spot June waving in this one?
Unlike
the desert on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, the approach to the North
Rim is across the forested Kaibab Plateau - scenic miles of alpine forest,
meadows and aspens


Bryce
Canyon, a photographer's delight



After
Bryce we explored nearby Kodachrome Basin. We had the trails there almost
to ourselves although it was too hot to do anything strenuous
Driving ten miles into the sagebrush desert on a dusty dirt road, crossing
washouts and with no signs of human habitation in sight, we were starting
to get uneasy and checking the GPS when we finally came to a small parking
lot, outhouse and a few hundred yards of paved path sitting incongruously
in the middle of nowhere
We had arrived at Grosvenor Arch, a rock formation over 200 feet high, rising
from the arid wasteland with a spectacular double arch. I managed to catch
a contrail crossing the window against the incredibly deep blue sky
On
our way home we spent three nights at Yellowstone National Park. This skyscape
was captured at Mammoth Hot Springs
Late September was an ideal time of year to visit Yellowstone. The peak
tourist season was over, the Fall colours were starting to show, and there
was wildlife everywhere. We were warned that this magnificent bull elk guarding
his harem outside the lodge at Mammoth was rather cantankerous, having attacked
several people and cars a few days earlier, causing considerable damage.
Home, home on the range? Bison were everywhere. The steam in the background
is one of the hundreds of geysers in the park
The bison (aka buffalo) were huge, magnificent beasts. They go where they
want, taking little notice of humans or cars - who is going to argue right
of way with something that size? They have a wild and baleful eye, and I
took lots of photos
But
June got the best of all. On the last morning, with mist rising from the
Yellowstone river in the background, we stopped in the road to let a herd
cross. When one animal started to walk down the passenger side, I passed
my camera to June and she captured this from her side window - perfectly
framed!

Yellowstone
is mainly an old caldera, very large, with geysers and other thermal activity
almost everywhere, including this steaming volcanic "cow pat"
in the lake. Plumes of steam often made it seem as if the whole landscape
was on fire
The "Dragon's Mouth" would discourage the most avid caver, sending
intermittent surges of boiling water shooting out accompanied by deep throated
roars
Naturally
we had to wait around (with many others) for Old Faithful to erupt, although
it is not as impressive as it once was. This is the busiest part of the
park so we didn't stay long

More
bison, more geysers, more hot weather. Many of the pools were crystal clear,
blue and surrounded by mutlticoloured mats of bacteria and other strange
growth.
Steamed
June! One could only get close to most of the geysers and hot pools by using
boardwalks, because the surrounding ground, however firm looking, was just
a thin crust over boiling water and mud. Ignore the warnings and you may
break through and scald to death.
On the way back home we stopped for a few hours in Deer Lodge, Montana,
home to the first territorial prison in America. Right on main street, the
high sandstone walls dominate downtown. Built in 1871, it is now a museum
where one can wander on a self-guided tour - we had the whole prison almost
to ourselves, which was kind of eerie. This cell block is comparatively
luxurious - the original accommodation had no plumbing, just two buckets
in each cell: one for water, one for sewage.
The
fearsome, iron-bound door to "The Hole", a maximum punishment
isolation cell where inmates were punished by complete darkness, existing
only on bread and water. This practice was later discontinued as being inhumane
The
prison is a grim place, a powerful incentive for anyone to stay honest.
This ingenious collapsible execution device, nicknamed "The Galloping
Gallows", was transported from place to place
in the territory as needed,