Olympic Peninsula and other good places in Washington, May 2003
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It's
a long road trip to the coast from our home and we took several days over it.
From the highway near Vantage, the Wild Horses Monument is a spectacular
sight as a herd of wild horses appears to be galloping across the desert mountains.
After scrambling our way to the top to get these images we were surprised to
find the sheet steel horses were elaborately decorated instead of being mere
silhouettes against the background of the Columbia River.
In
the State capital, Olympia, we explored the impressive legislative
buildings and surrounding grounds. In nearby Lacey, at an "Electric Car
and Alternate Fuel Rally", an employee of Seattle City was offering demo
rides on a Segway. "We
must get one!", said June as soon as she stepped off after a short ride
on this brilliant invention. Unfortunately, at present the price is far too
high, but one day....
The
Olympia Flight Museum has a small but eclectic collection. June
is standing beside an atomic bomb with a destructive power ("adjustable",
we were told) 30 times more than the one that leveled Hiroshima. Designed to
be carried by fighter aircraft, this technology is old enough to be in a museum,
so one can only imagine the power of even smaller ones today. It was sobering
to lay hands on this cold, sleek little thing, prosaically labeled with a military
part number, that could have leveled a major city and changed the course of
history.
We spent four days at Kalaloch, in Olympic National Park.
Trails lead down to the beaches from the short stretch of highway that runs
close to the sea, always giving spectacular views, but most of the outer coast
is wild and inaccessible by road. Be aware of tides or risk getting trapped
as the water rises right up to unclimbable cliffs or almost impenetrable bush.
Next stop to the west is Japan.
Beaches of sand, beaches of rocks, beaches of sea stacks, cliffs and tide pools
- all great for exploring and enjoying the beauty of wave-worn rock and wood.
The
intertidal zone teems with life, much of it edible, at least to the multitude
of birds and other animals that feast here. A mass of starfish and tube worms
completely covers a rocky outcrop. Gooseneck barnacles cluster tightly on a
bottle drifted ashore, maybe after years at sea. The little animal, posed on
the shell of a Dungeness crab, was one of thousands blown ashore on the beaches
while we were there. Called "Sail-by-the-wind" (scientific name Velella) they
live on the surface of oceans around the world, moved by winds acting on translucent
sails.
Just
inland from the coast, the Hoh River valley is a lush rainforest
- halls of green with flowers, ferns, mosses, and lichens forming a deep carpet
on the forest floor.
Walking
along a trail in thick forest, being very quiet as we were looking for birds,
we suddenly realized we were not alone - this huge elk was standing
right beside us. We froze, then realized that we had managed to infiltrate a
whole herd, all within a few feet. Luckily, I had my camera and tripod ready
to take this picture in the dim light.
From the outer coast we went to Whidbey Island in Puget Sound.
At Fort Casey, 10" guns from the 1890's are preserved in a park full of birds
and wildflowers overlooking Puget Sound with the Olympic Mountains as a backdrop.
In another State Park, Fort Ebey, I declined an invitation to
take a tandem ride with a parasail instructor, which was just as well because
a few seconds later he crash landed on a steep cliff face when the wind dropped
unexpectedly.
Coupeville
is one of the oldest and most picturesque little towns in Washington. We were
there for the annual Water Festival, a colourful bustle complete with a gathering
for tribal canoe races. In nearby Greenbank, we enjoyed a harp concert amid
10 acres of rhododendrons in peak bloom.
We
liked Whidbey Island so much we stayed an extra night at this waterfront cottage
where June enjoyed a soak in the hot tub every evening
We
went home via the scenic North Cascades Highway, stopping for
lunch at this scenic overlook above Diablo. Our last stop was
at the backroad ghost town of Molson on a sunny day with nobody
else there to explore the ancient buildings and rusting antiques.