In June 2004 I set off across Canada on my bicycle. Or at least I'd planned to cross Canada. It didn't work out, mostly because of the weather, but I did have a great ride.

These pages are an account of that trip, as told through travelogs I sent to friends. I hope you enjoy the ride!

August 5, Two O'clock Creek

    The hours get away. I'm distracted, wandering through clearings filled with glistening wet fresh wildflowers. A few patches of blue appear, then are consumed by brooding clouds that antagonize the wind.
    Some of the campers are building fires, I will do without. Tonight I will be dependent on my own heat, the fire in my body to survive. The wind will caress me and the earth will support me. I will sleep the sleep of an angel.
    Then, in the morning when the sun comes over the mountain, I will rise up and go.
 

Days Later, Lake Louise

    Things changed the next morning as Blu, BoB and I rode off into a stiff head wind towards the Jasper Banff Parkway. I needed the wind. Things were building up inside me. I was having a crisis of confidence since I turned around, abandoned my planned excursion east, and fled back into the mountains. I was beating myself up, now I could back off and let the wind do the flogging.
    It worked! My spirits brightened as the headwind turned cold and I rounded a bend to see a pair of huge glaciers atop the mountain range ahead. A few K along I passed a couple guys about my age, taking a break from their bikes, for lunch. As a I blew by I hollered; "Nice tail wind, eh boys!"
    Their laughter caught up to me a couple further K along when they blue my doors off and hollered, "Hey Man, You Gotta Hell of a Hill Ahead, Good Luck!"
    We met again an hour later, when I blew a tire at the Thompson Creek campground. They came riding up and stopped, warning me again of the tough hill ahead into Saskatchewan Crossing.
    Tire fixed, boys long gone, I set off again. Saskatchewan Crossing would come and go, but the hill the boys were so diligent to warn me about never materialized. And people say the mountains don't move!
    That night I made it half way up Bow Summit.

August 6 Wildfowl Lake

    Rough day. Big Hills. Blown Tire. Didn't think the blown tire at Thompson Creek meant I should stay there. Pushed on.
    Saskatchewan Crossing was dismal affair. A zoo full of tourists. From there to here was all uphill.
    Luck has changed. Got my night here free, after explaining to the camp attendant that I had only $30 to get to Louise, and if I paid the $17 fee she was asking for, I would have no money if I broke down before Louise. She said it was an easy problem to solve. I responded; "Oh yeah. How?"
    She said; You stay free!
    Lovely little round pumpkin of a woman with long black hair and the warmest eyes I've ever seen. Big rollers they were, brown as the earth. Reminded me of my Mom.
    Lovely place. Camp opens on a river and lake. High walls on either side, pinnacles all around. Awesome but buggy.

August 7 Mosquito Creek

    Made it over Bow Summit then blew Blu's rear tire for the second time in as many days. Good thing I stayed free last night. Tough long hill to the summit, about 15 to 20 K, all uphill. Had to stop and settle down a few times but didn't have to get off and push. Got out of Wildfowl about 11, arrived here about 3:30.
    Rained all night. Rained an hour ago.
    Met a lot of other cyclists, most of them doing the tour and tote thing, where their gear gets hauled ahead of them in vans. As they blasted by me on the uphill I yelled; You Guys are Cheating!
    Most of them laughed, but one woman took issue hollering; Not Really! To which I replied, "Yes, Really!"
    Met a couple from Taiwan cycling towards Jasper. They came racing after me and asked to take my picture. They said I was the only "real Canadian" they ever  met!
    Incredible environ here, right on the creek, surrounded by massive pinnacles. Creek has a confluence, creating a mini-delta that is full of wildflowers. No Bugs!
    Not so tired today as others. Feel okay, a little damp. Better wind today, altho' there were some headwinds, they were short lived. Incline was steep but didn't have to go in the low lows too often. Biggest hassle was the flat.
    Have serious rope burns on my fingers. Need to stop somewhere and let them heal a few days.
    At least I'm in a beautiful place. See what I can do to internalize it. Need to make myself pretty on the in. Don't feel too pretty on the out right now.
 

    The next day I made it to Lake Lousie. It was an easy beautiful ride down a long decline and included a lunch break at Hector Lake, a lovely little emerald pond.

    I sent you these excerpts partly to give you all some idea what I'm encountering out here. This has been a trip of mixed adversity and fun. I thought you all should have a little of the adversity so's you can dig the fun a little deeper.

    I turned around for a couple reasons. One main issue was money. I did not have enought to insure I didn't get stuck somewhere. Another was emotional. I found it almost impossible to leave the mountains. It was like I was cutting my own embilical chord or something. Deep in my gut the voice was bellowing, NO Don't Go!!
    Another was culture. I was a zoo animal in Alberta. My fault tho'. For looking like I come from some little hippy town in BC. Hey wait a minute, I do come from some little hippy town in BC.
    I got spoiled last year. In some ways I think I ruined this year by expecting things to be like last year. I was not prepared for the long lonely riding and the long often loathsome staring of Alberta.

    Ah, but to leave it all well. I have just had a whole week of sunshine and socialization here in touristy, abhorantly expensive, but incredibly beautiful Lake Lousie, or Lake of Small Fishes because its so damn cold there's nothing for the little trouts to eat.
    Have moved out on the French and in with a lovely couple from the midlands of England and their four year old daughter Leah, who has a Canadian soul and a rich British accent to go with her flaming red hair and freckles.
    All is well. Likely pull out of here tomorrow, if it doesn't rain.
    Take Care Y'all, Would love to hear from a few more of you!