On April 1, 2005 I set off across Canada on my bicycle. Or at least I'd planned to cross Canada. These pages are an account of that trip, as told through travelogs I sent to friends. I hope you enjoy the ride!

Hey Folks,
I'm sitting in the Painted Turtle Hostel in Nanaimo BC, having finally found the most changed city in BC.

It took me a couple days to get here. First I had to get myself thrown out of the Turtle Refuge in Victoria for standing up to the local bully and taking a good shove through a door, which fortunately for me, was open.

After a couple days back at the Ritz, during which I helped a fellow hosteller file formal compaints about racism and agism at the afromentioned low rent rendevous, I headed out.

The weather man called for rain. Instead brilliant sunshine abounded as Blu and BoB and I trundled out the Galloping Goose, along the Interurban, and onto West Saanich Road. A lovely ride amid the spring blossoms and green fields. So lovely we lolligagged all the way to the Brentwood Ferry, where we jumped the strait straight back to the island and wound up in the deep cedar forest at Bamberton.

Setting up camp and cloaking Blu and BoB in case the rain came around, I was surprised how easily it went, except for the fact, in all my preparation, I'd overlooked a simple pot scrubber. I sat up late beneath the starless sky listening to the big cedars breathe and sway, then went to sleep.

Sometime in the night the rain came, and came, and came. I was impressed that, through it all, I remained dry and toasty in my tentless tarp world. And even though I had to pack up damp, I was able, or so I thought, to keep most stuff dry. Then I rode out, into the rain, wet, drenching, deluging, unforgiving, relentless . . . well you get the point, I was bloody soaked. So soaked I had to stop in Duncan and dry my clothes at the laundromat. Walked right in, up to the dryer, took off everything I had on, and threw it in. Brought a bathing suit in with me and managed to slip into it before anyone noticed I was naked in public.

One elderly lady got quite a charge out of the fact I was sitting there, on a cold wet rainy island day, with nothing on but my bathing suit and body fuzz. Once it was all dry, I imnmediately got it all wet again by riding up the long curling Telegraph Road then down into Chemainus where, failing to find a hostel, I took up lodging in a picnic pavillion at the Bald Eagle Campground, where I'd stayed a couple years back. There I was provided a wood supply, and lit a fire while hanging my clothes up to dry once again. Then after a good pasta dinner, and a long time of listening to the stern south west wind drive the rain against the roof, I slept again.

Today, after packing up, I rode through a mixture of sun, cloud, sprinkles, more sun, more cloud, and before I knew it found myself drifting lazily along the quiet side streets and into downtown Nanaimo, which, like I said, is the most changed city I know. It took me hours to find my bearings. I knew this town back when I was in Rock'n'roll. But it is all gone now, and will soon be further altered. They're about to tear down and rebuild most of the old town, with no better plan than to turn it into some sort of northern Laguna Beach, with paved waterfront, five star hotels, skyscraping condos, car culture, and absolutely nothing to draw anyone into the place, now the strange old funky townsite has been plowed aside.

On the upside, I took a walk along the waterfront and was pleased to find the warfs and docks open to the people, so I wandered down and took a look at all the big old fish boats, trollers, yachts, sailboats, tugs and floating houses. It was delightful under the starry skies and I did feel a bit like I was in Laguna again, but long ago.

Now I'm back in this upscale hostel, ala Dancing Bear in Nelson, a refurbished turn of the century hotel done up to its original grandeur with all the modern conveniences built in. Not a bad place at all, but not lived-in enough for my tastes. The place needs some culture. It's too polite, too servile, too tame.

Anyway, tomorrow I head a little further north.

I'm having a few difficulties. One is my weight. The bike is overloaded. Overloaded in books. So help me out kids, place your order today, let me lighten up a bit and send out some books. You've been doing good so far but several of you have not yet made your purchase. Buy a book and save Blu's rear axle.

On the flip side, all that weight is doing wonders for my thighs.

Big red sky tonight, unless it lied, should be a good ride tomorrow. See you when I get there.
Will