On April 1, 2005 I set off across Canada on my bicycle. Or at least I'd planned to cross Canada. These pages are an account of that trip, as told through travelogs I sent to friends. I hope you enjoy the ride!



After the Crash

Hey Folks,
Yeah, for those of you who haven't been keeping up, I crashed last week. A week ago today as a matter of fact.

Thanks to all of you who have been helping out with your expressions of affection and concern. It's helped. Helped like the patch of raspberries in my host's garden. They're a fat ripe reddish purple coming off the vine into your hands as soon as you touch them variety, sweet like wind off Lake Superior exploding with flavour as they meet the tongue.

Nice to know you care.

As far as my injuries go, my face has healed pretty much, still have a small scab on my lip and some darkness around my left eye. Otherwise my mug is pretty as a picture. My left knee still has a scab, but will do much better if I stop knocking into things, or getting tangled in berry bushes with it!

It's another story with my left heel. It still has some swelling and numbness. I can put a little weight on it, but not for long. I've tried riding Blu, which I can do fine, but dismounting can be quite difficult. May have to teach myself to dismount on the right. I'm more dislexic than ambidextros, so it may take a few years to get that one down. The heel too would do much better if I could stay off it, not so easy to do when you're sleeping in the hostel gazebo.

I call it Purgatory. I'm in the hostel purgatory. Don't get me wrong. Nothing really bad about Purgatory, nothing really good either. Limbo, limbo, but no salsa to do the limbo too.

Here at the Hotel Purgatory, run be a couple in their early 70s, life is . . .ho hum. They're very sweet folks, former missionaries who came from Borneo over 30 years ago and bought the Longhouse Village, a once popular motel and campground out Lakeshore Drive, east of Thunder Bay, and turned it into a European-style hostel. They're odd. He's a non-stop exciteable guy who just goes, goes, goes. Everything from building and maintaining a good trail to the local swimming hole, to turning a stretch of raw earth between the rail lines and the town's main thoroughfare into a park. His wife, is a calm, quiet woman whom everyone refers to as Mom, or Grandma. She too, is always doing something, making food for her grandkids, writing letters on behalf of refugees, lobbying childcare authorities, and looking out for her six kids, four biological and two adopted, now grown with children of their own.

Here's a story about them. The other day a Japanese fellow showed up here on a motorcycle laden heavier than BoB and Blu. It was late and he was tired.
 

Moments after he checked in, Pa and Ma had a conference. The biker hadn't brought any food or cash, he needed to get to a store. The conference wasn't about whether or not they would help the guy out, but which one of them was driving! They're like that with everyone. At the same time. Once they agree to do something like, take your bike to the bus depot, then you're along for the ride, and that could include pit stops along a local boulevard to pick up trash, or up to the local landfill to retrieve useful objects, or down to Chapters Book Store to read the Globe and Mail. On the way you'll be accompanied by a wide assortment of grandchildren, friends of grandchildren, friends of the kids, the kids themselves, hitchhikers, assorted hostlellers, and refugees - political and domestic.

And all the while it is like a purgatory, like being in a movie but knowing you're really just a bystander, a movie-goer at a cinema of the eccentric. I fit right in, I don't fit in at all, and nothing seems to happen but there's always a full load of laundry on the line, the lawns are always mowed, the kitchen always clean, the bathrooms in good order, the fish pond clean, dinner always cooked on time.

Oh well, been here too long!

Just dropped a quarter of my monthly budget on a Greyhound ticket for Blu, BoB and I to Sault Ste. Marie. I wanted to ride around the lake. I really did, and if the powers that be ever decide to put in a bicycle lane, I will!

Even if I'm 80! But the point is, I plan to be 80 someday and that particular road ain't condusive to turning 80, especially on a bicycle.

A friend is coming from Montreal to meet me in the Soo. Depending how my foot is, I may either continue my ride from somewhere east of there, or I'll give it a real chance to heal, and accept a ride that's been offered, to Montreal. If I can heal up well enough, I'll keep cycling. If not, I'll have an adventure anyway.

Haven't passed quality time in Montreal since I was a kid.

Talk to you all soon. Hope you're all well.
Will


 
 


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