Reverse Swirling
Carcassone, France, June 13
Well kids here I am on the eve of aborting my Euro
adventure. I’ve
purchased train passage to St. Malo, on the Atlantic coast, where I
can catch a ferry to Plymouth England, and from there get into London
and Heathrow airport.
Its not really an abortion. I knew when I came over
I was due to go
back on June 19, just wish I’d had more forsight regarding time. I
could have easily stayed here another month, if it didn’t mean
replacing the ticket. Despite the breakdowns, traffic tickets, and
weather escapades, I’ve kept well to my budget. I’m proud of that. I
could have done another month, easily, if it weren’t for British
Airway’s strict “no alteration” rule.

My short stay in St. Martin de Villereglan ended as
it began this
morning, quietly, with little fanfare. I was up late sewing my torn
right rear pannier with fishing line. Did a good job! Cleaned up Emma’s
house, not that I’d messed it much. Felt very sad, far more wanted to
see her than her house, and a little down, because I picked another
one. Well, at least it got me to the south of France. Don’t think I’d
have come here without the carrot she dangled. Still, I don’t think
I’ll bother trying to meet up with here again. Methinks if she’d made
it clear she had no intention of metting up I might have gone
elsewhere, like Prauge, or Rome, or Spain. I’m so close to Spain.
Ride here today was absolutely what I ride for, up a
long serious of
steep hills high above the Aude River valley with incredible vistas of
the Pyrenes Mountains, then down again deep into the valley into this
oddly romantic little town with its walled medeival city and its dry
windy landscape.
Sat for a time in the town square, just watching the
people. I haven’t
mentioned it but the rumours about French women being among the most
beautiful to look at on earth, well they’re true. They are real nice to
look at. However, I think they could benefit from trying not to look
so uppity all the time. I figured out its a surfacy culture, like their
bread. It looks real good from the outside, feels firm and heavy, but
when you slice it open its like tissue paper. There’s not a lot of
substance, just show, no tell. At least that’s how I’m finding it.
They’re very polite sometimes, almost too much so. You can be told to
f-off and think you’re being complimented.
Anyway, things were a little twilight zonish in St.
Martin last night.
People were at the door bumming smokes at midnight. There was an eery
wind blowing and the full moon had strange dark clouds racing around
it. Got a little spooky, especially with the grey treeless lanes and
creaking shudders on all the windows. I was actually glad to get away.
Dropped some of my load in St. Martin, some books
and CDs for Emma and
her neighbours Jean and John, the thick wool sweater I haven’t used
since before Tubingen, the big tarp I bought on my way out of
Maastricht, Holland, when the wind and rain were raising hell. Its
summer now, I told myself, I no longer need this weight. It made my
load much easier to deal with, I’m not so bulky anymore. Should help on
the train too. I’m smaller now.

Train leaves at 10 am. I’m nervous about that. Have
to make sure I
sleep early and get up. Have a few K to do to the depot from the
campground where I’m staying. Hoping my timing will be right to pick up
some day food along the way. Was bushed when I got in here, even though
it wasn’t a long ride today, only 25 K, but steep.
Have had some difficulty with my upper legs since I
left Tubingen. I’ve
had a lot of cramping and cannot do the lotus position very well. Last
night while sleeping I woke up to serious cramps, which is really weird
because I’ve not been riding all that much. I have had to fight wind.
Think maybe the week long layoff in Tubingen sort of messed up my
conditioning a bit. Probably just need to do a few days of long riding.
Unless something happens to assure me my ticket is
covered, I’m not
likely to get any long rides in until I reach Canada next Monday. I may
get one through the south of England, if I get there before the
weekend, but I’m most likely looking a few days of trains, ferries, and
more trains.
The train that leaves in the morning deposits me in
St. Malo tomorrow
night. The ferry, from what I understand, leaves in the morning. If all
the connections go well I could be in Plymouth, maybe Brighton, by
Thursday. If that happens I’ll take a day and go for a good ride.
Anyway, just thought I’d let you all know what’s up.
Hope I find a bag of money so I can give up the BA
ticket and turn this
train around. Whether it does or not, I’m sure there’s more to come,
the train does do Paris and I have to get from one station to another,
which in and of itself may turn out to be a travelog.
Coming soon to your email box.
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